Greetings, readers of the Haverhill Gazette. I am the Hungry Hillie, hired on a meal-by-meal basis to investigate Greater Haverhill's finest restaurants, most popular eateries and neighborhood cantinas.
With your city's downtown area becoming world-renowned for its restaurants, I figured it was only fair to put your chefs to the test against my insatiable appetite and discriminating palate. Check back on a biweekly basis for a new review.
And restaurant owners, remember, your next customer could be the Hillie!
Before making my grand entrance into the downtown, I decided to stop at a local Italian favorite right across the river in Bradford.
With more than 70 years of culinary practice under its belt, The Roma Restaurant appeared to be a quality start for my dining odyssey.
The current owners are of Greek descent, and have added that country's gastronomic treasures to the traditionally Italian menu that they inherited.
I decided to stick with the Italian on my first visit.
I started with the bruschetta appetizer.
Although the crust was a touch crispy, the rich topping of tomatoes, onions and olives was complemented by a pleasing hint of garlic. The garlic was portioned perfectly and far from the overpowering flavor found in many chain Italian places.
For the main course, I splurged on the "fettuccini frutti aromatici." Mussels, shrimp, scallops and calamari were piled high and rested upon a thick bed of fettuccini.
Make no mistake, there was plenty of food for both dinner that evening and lunch the next day.
The plum tomato sauce provided a sweetness that blended nicely with all the different seafoods, but was a touch watery. I have a feeling it was a haphazard draining of the pasta and not a fault in the sauce itself, however.
Served alongside dinner was a bowl of minestrone soup, described on the menu as "a Roma classic." The thick soup was hearty enough to be a meal unto itself.
For dessert, I went with the old Italian standby of tiramisu. The cake itself was serviceable, but a heated chocolate sauce ensured that every flaky bite was drenched with a fudge taste. For some, it may be overpowering but it lent a nice contrast to the chill sensation of the cake.
The dining rooms were a trifle noisy at points, but instrumental background music tended to mute most wayward conversations. The booth seating was comfortable and offered ample room for my full stomach.
My waiter was courteous if a bit curt and distracted. In his defense, I had arrived shortly after the start of the dinner rush hour.
Entrees range from $14 to $20, appetizers from $4 to $7, and desserts about $7. Full wine and beer lists are available. Takeout service is also available.
